O3 - Ozinoil | Fully Ozonated Olive Oil || How to Make || DIY Tutorial
Updated on 7/27/2017 - Version 1.3

Fully Ozonated Olive Oil (Chilled/Solidified)

This document serves as a tutorial explaining in detail how to make the highest quality ozonated olive oil at home. It is a precursor to an article on how to use fully ozonated olive oil in suppositories, as well as a precursor for an upcoming tutorial on how to make a product very similar to Para Rizol Zeta. This is an amazing formulation of ozonated olive oil, ozonated castor oil, and powerful essential oils. It is utilized by Dr. Klinghardt (among others) in the treatment of Lyme disease. Rizol was "invented" in Germany in the early 1900's. The "modern" versions of Rizol that are currently being marketed have been pioneered by Dr. Gerhard Steidl, in Erlangen, Germany.

In the United States, a bottle of 10 in 1 Para Rizol has been selling for $100.00. While making such a formulation at home is involved, it can be done for the cost of electricity and the oils, once a person has the necessary equipment.

We'll refer to ozonated oil as "ozinoil". In future tutorials, we'll introduce coined terms such as "Liposinoil" which is ozonated oil combined with liposomal essential oils; our unique version of a Rizol formulation!

Another very unique formulation: "Peroxinozinoil" or "perozinoil", which is a formulation that increases the oxidation potential of ozinoil by stabilizing hydrogen peroxide in the ozonated oil.

So, there are many different things that can be done once one has first learned how to make ozinoil!

Specialized equipment is required. The ozone equipment is available through www.silvermedicine.org. See our page on affordable therapeutic grade ozone generators. We only provide ozone generators for water purification, and refurbished oxygen concentrators.

For those interested in making the "poor man's" ozonated olive oil, please join the www.Silvermedicine.org: Advanced Yahoo Email Group List. While the quality isn't nearly as good, the equipment needed is much more affordable.

Making high quality ozonated oil requires an investment. However, consider the fact that some marketing companies charge anywhere from $12.00 - $30.00 for a single "maximum dose" ozonated olive oil suppository. Furthermore, quality ozone equipment has many therauetic uses, including ozonating water, ozone bagging, steam ozone sauna therapy and ozone insufflation.

Utilizing fully ozonated oils may, in some situations, be equally-- perhaps even more-- effective than RHP ( Recirculatory Haemoperfusion) ozone therapy. This form of therapy, as well as standard IV ozone therapy can cost hundreds to thousands of dollars per treatment.

Ozonated oil therapy can be done more frequently than IV therapies, and without scarring veins. It can be done in the comfort of one's own home.

When considering all of these factors, doing it oneself can save a great deal of money.

How to Make Fully Ozonated Olive Oil

The quality of the ozonated oils one can make at home is often much superior then the ozonated olive oil (OOO) sold by many manufacturers. Furthermore, one can make partially ozonated oils for immediate use as well (see the work of Dr. Hulda Clark, among others).

The production process is actually quite simple. The learning curve is very light and all in all it is difficult to do it wrong!

Equipment and Supplies Needed (see pictures below)

• A therapeutic grade ozone generator (oxygen fed) - email us... We recommend using the twin cell
unit that we carry, however a single cell unit would work fine (it would certainly take awhile longer)
• An oxygen concentrator - a 5 LPM refurbished unit is fine -email us
• An Invacare pediatric flow regulator - Search around for a used one if possible, or best pricing
• A glass flask/graduated cylinder (100 ml, 250 ml, or 500 ml)
• A water bath (simply a container to hold water which serves to cool down the ozonating oil)
• Organic Olive Oil
• Glass jars ( 1 oz, 2 oz, or 4 oz) - 1 oz jars would be for single use (clear glass is ok)
• A healthy supply of common sense

Safety First

Please remember that between 96-99% pure oxygen is used with therapeutic grade ozone. While bubbling the ozone through oil neutralizes the oxygen (the oxygen reacts with the oil), always assume that there are high levels of oxygen in the ambient air. Err on the side of caution. It is very easy for one of the hoses to become disconnected from the oxygen concentrator, which results in the release of high concentrations of oxygen.

Only make ozonated oils in a room with adequate ventilation. Adequate ventilation means having air circulation in the room, along with an open "venting" window.

Avoid breathing in too much ozone! If over-exposure occurs, immediately drink a vitamin c/antioxidant rich drink, such as lemon water, orange juice, etc. It is very difficult to actually harm yourself with ozone, but if you try hard enough, you are certain to find a way!

Long term over-exposure to ozone, like many substances, can cause the body to develop a sensitivity to it. While turpine gas is produced during most of the production (rather than ozone), ambient air ozone is produced toward the end of the process.

Please remember that some individuals may be more sensitive to ambient ozone then others.

Setting up the Equipment (see images below)

Please refer to the manuals that came with your equipment as needed.

Plug in the power cords for the oxygen concentrator and the ozone generator.

Attach an oxygen-rated hose (which likely came with the unit) to the "O2 Out" outlet, and connect it to the "in" inlet of the pediatric flow regulator.

Connect another oxygen-rated hose to the "out" outlet of the pediatric regulator, and attach this hose to the "Oxygen/O2 In" inlet of the ozone generator.

Make sure that all of the silicon hoses/tubes are properly connected on the ozone generator. Make sure both cells are adjusted to produce the highest concentration of ozone (turn the dials all the way to the right).

Attach one last silicon hose to the "O3 Activated Oxygen Out" outlet. This is the hose that will be placed into the glass container used to produce the oil.

In summary, the oxygen concentrator is attached to the pediatric flow regulator. The pediatric flow regulator is attached to the ozone generator. Ozone is then pumped through a hose into the glass flask or glass graduated cylinder..

Pour the olive oil into the flask. Never fill a flask above the top measurement line (in order to avoid spillage).

For a 100 ml glass container, fill the container up to the 100 ml mark.

For a 250 ml glass container, fill the container up to the 250 ml mark.

For a 500+ ml glass container, fill the container up to the 250 ml mark. While this setup will allow one to ozonate 500 ml of oil, we recommend only doing 250 ml at a time. As more oil is added into the container, it causes increased back pressure. This may result in the oxygen concentrator not having enough pressure to push the ozone gas through the oil.

Fill the make-shift water bath with water. This is used simply to draw off the heat from the ozonating oil. The greater the depth of the water and the greater the surface area used is, the easier it will be to keep the ozonating oil cool. Next, place the glass brewing vessel into the water bath.

Most instructions state that the ideal production environment is a well ventilated room with a temperature of between 73 - 78 degrees F. This seems to make the assumption that the oil will be at this temperature as well. However, the oxidation process which makes the ozonated oil is an exothermic reaction; it releases heat. Depending upon many different factors, this results in the oil temperature reaching above 90 degrees F.

In order to perfectly stabilize all of the ozonides being created, the oil temperature should be between 75 - 80 degrees F. Furthemore, a cooler environment results in the oil being able to hold more ozone.

Using a laser gun thermometer is the easiest way to check the temperature of the oil as the process is running.

Run the silicon hose from the ozone generator's "O3 Activated Oxygen Out" outlet into the glass container filled with olive oil. Place the hose so that the end of the hose is just a millimeter or so above the bottom.

IMPORTANT: Make certain that the ozone generator itself is elevated, at least slightly ABOVE the top of the glass production unit. This principle also applies to ozonating water. This will prevent oil/water from leaking into the ozone generator.

PLEASE NOTE: Some of the images below do not show the water bath in use. We were only able to verify the ideal production temperature after this tutorial had been completed. The water bath is thus a new addition to the tutorial, resulting in an even higher quality end product.

The Process

At this point, all of the hard work has been done. All that is left to do is turn the equipment on, and let nature take its course!

Turn the oxygen concentrator on. Set the flow rate on the oxygen concentrator to about 3 liters per minute using the dial on the front of the unit. Since we are managing the flow rate with the pediatric flow meter, just make certain that the oxygen concentrator flow rate is high enough to get good pressure.

Turn both of the ozone cells on (the red switches will light, shining red).

After a few short moments, you should see the olive oil start bubbling as the ozone gas is pumped through it. Ozone is lighter than the oil yet heavier than air. Once the bubbling commences, all of the oil in the container will react to the ozone, even if it only looks like a single bubble is being released from the glass container!

Once the bubbling has started, set the pediatric flow regulator by turning the dial. Set the flow rate to between 1/4 liters per minute (61.5 ug/ml) and 1/2 liters per minute (44.5 ug/ml).

After a few minutes, smell the top of the glass container while the oil is bubbling. Note the ABSENCE of the smell of ozone.

IMPORTANT: If the bubbling stops at any time during production, simply move the hose a bit more toward the surface to help relieve the back pressure. This step may be required as the ozonated oil becomes thicker. Always check on the process several times throughout the day in order to help prevent unnecessary delays.

The time it will take to complete the process with vary based on the properties of the oil and the ambient temperature.

The production time for the 100 ml. tall glass cylinder: Between 35 and 42 hours

The production time for 550 ml.: Between 132 and 137 hours (just under six days)

The production time for 250 ml. tall glass cylinder: About 4 days (~60 ~ 96 hours)

As the production starts to get toward the end, the oil will start to become very light in color. It will also become thicker.

When this occurs, turn the flow regulator up to 3/4 liters per minute (33.9ug/ml). This will help "churn" the oil during the final hours of production.

Please note that if using a water bath to cool the ozonating oil, toward the end of the process the oil may start to solidify as it becomes more dense. Slowly adjust the temperature of the water bath so that the oil does not solidfy.

Toward the beginning of the process, you can run with the oil temperature between 65 - 73 degrees F. Toward the end, you'll need to adjust the bath to keep the oil at between 75 - 79 degrees F.

The production process is complete when:

1. All of the oil has been completely oxidized.

2. The salve cannot hold any more ozone.

Once this occurs, the smell of "full strength" ozone will begin to emit from the glass container. You will know when you've reach this stage because the smell of ozone will start to become overwhelming.

Don't worry If this happens hours before you notice (if you've been asleep or out of the house).

To complete the process:

Turn the ozone equipment off.

Turn the oxygen concentrator off.

Remove the hose from the glass container.

Immediately fill the glass storage jars. Pour the fully ozonated olive oil to just below the top of the containers. Leave only 1 millimeter or two unfilled... just enough so that the lid won't be contaminated when tightened. Make sure that all of the containers are air tight.

Store in the refigerator or freezer until ready to use.

Clean all of the "production gear" (the glass container and hose) using hot water and mild natural detergent.

Important Notes

Once the production process is well underway, it is best not to stop it. As time goes on, the oil will become thicker, and may start to solidify once the ozone equipment is turned off. This may result in too much back pressure to resume the process. If this does occur, gently and slowly heat the glass container up (do not use direct heat) in order to liquify the partially ozonated olive oil. Then, restart the process, verifying that the ozone is successfully bubbling through the container.

Ideally, a water bath should be used which is deep enough to submerge the glass production vessel to at least equal with the oil. If you can't find or make a water bath deep enough to keep the temperature controlled, it might be a better idea to use a a wider-based flask (see picture below for the type of container). If using a wide-based flask, use a proper sized flask for the amount of oil you will be ozonating. For example, for 250 ml, use a 250 ml flask rather than a larger one (like the 500 ml flask in the image below).

If the ozonated olive oil is only for personal use, experiment with adding a few drops of terpine-rich essential oils, and inhaling the gas produced while the batch is running. This in itself is a very powerful inhalation therapy. All of the essential oil added will oxidize (burn) and create ozonides, just like the olive oil itself will.

FAQ

I've seen instructions elsewhere that state that you need to ozonate olive oil for two to three weeks, even if you are using pure oxygen with a therapeutic grade ozone generator. Why? Is their oil better because they are ozonating for longer?

No. That's how powerful this particular ozone generator is. What takes other generators to accomplish in weeks, we can accomplish in days. Once oil is fully ozonated, there is absolutely no value in continuing to pump ozone through it.

I notice that your picture shows ozonated oil that is completely white. Pictures I've seen at other websites that sell fully ozonated oil show a product that is darker. Why?

The reason must simply be an inferior production process. Properly fully ozonated olive oil is white, once it is cooled down into a "frozen" state.

The picture of the ozonated oil here shows a "porous" solidified oil. Isn't it better to let it settle before sealing and refrigerating?

You can do this. However, keep at mind that ozone is very unstable, and the quicker it is cooled down to solidify it, the more potent it will be. The end result won't be that significanty better, since very little actual ozone remains in the oil..

Can I ozonate different kinds of oil?

Absolutely. Different oils can hold different amounts of activated oxygen. Olive oil is about at the "middle point". One very interesting oil to experiment with is castor oil, which will stay in liquid form. Feel free to experiment!

What about Using a Diffuser? Is there any reason not to?

Diffusers are very problematic when making OOO. They often break. They often get clogged. "Stone" bubblers break down and contaminate the ozonated oil. Due to the fact that an oxygen concentrator is being used, they also often reduce the flow rate of the ozone.

For 99% of the production process, the only thing that really matters is that the specified concentration of ozone is going into the olive oil, along with the specified flow rate.

A diffuser is not necessary. Ozone is lighter than oil yet heavier than the ambient air. Any ozone that has not reacted by the time it reaches the surface of the oil will simply start to form a layer on top of the oil. If any oil is still susceptible to oxidation, it will be oxidized. As the top "layer" of oil is oxidized, it becomes heavier than non-oxidized oil, and will start to sink. While this is a very slow "churn", it is a very effective churn.

However, it can be a good idea to use a diffuser for the last 15-30 minutes of the run. This will ensure that as much ozone is trapped as possible.

That said, be prepared to struggle cleaning the diffuser, and actually keeping it working to create tiny bubbles!

Toward the end of the process, I'm having problems keeping the oil cool enough to be below 80 degrees, but warm enough not to solidify. What's the secret?

Any time you need to cool off the ozonating oil, use more water in the water bath, or add air circulation (a small fan blowing onto the surface of the water, but not directed at the top of the brewing vessel).

Any time you need to raise the temperature of the ozonating oil, simply slowly reduce the volume of water. When you first notice the "froth" build up on top of the oil, start to remove some of the water slowly. With a bit of practice, you can easily keep the oil temperature between 75 - 80 degrees F toward the end of the process. At the beginning of the process, you can run the oil much cooler to increase the ozone activity.

Is there a way to increase the quality even more?

Yes. Once the oil starts to become very light (toward the end of the process), and gel, run the oxygen concentrator at 3/4 liters per minute until you start to smell ozone. Then, switch from using an oxygen concentrator to an oxygen bottle/tank. Drop the flow rate down to 1/16 liters per minute. Allow the ozonated oil to really become saturated with activated oxygen before stopping the process.

Images

Ozonating Olive Oil in a 500 ml Flask - "Cooling" Water Bath - Optional Fan

Pediatric Oxygen Flow Regulator Attached to the Ozone Generator

Oxygen Concentrator Attached to the Pediatric Flow Regulator

Pediatric Oxygen Flow Regulator Set Between 1/4 - 1/2 Liters per Minute

100 ml Glass Cylinder with 100 ml of Olive Oil Ozonating - Near the Beginning of the Process

100 ml Glass Cylinder with 100 ml of Olive Oil Ozonating - The Oil is Getting Very Light in Color

Example: Using a 500 ml Borosilicate Glass Beaker

Fully Ozonated Olive Oil - One Ounce - "Frozen"

Read the next tutorial in this series: How to make ozonated castor oil ...

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